The morning had began out completely in our little lodge. We loved the leisure of the opposite breakfasting visitors who have been nonetheless swaying from the earlier evening at a marriage as we took benefit of the proprietor’s supply to make to go sandwiches for our camino. The espresso was sizzling and the bread was contemporary. With our boots tied, backpacks balanced and shells dangling we have been off into the blue skied morning. However, as we handed by the city in direction of the trail alongside the ocean we seen the clouds rolling in and the wind selecting up its tempo. By the point we crossed paths with a heeding pal there was a peaceful that waded in earlier than us and we knew his phrases have been value gold. “You’ll be able to inform by the clouds that the storm goes to hit exhausting”.
There isn’t a poncho that may cease a North Atlantic storm from soaking you to the core however we trudged forward into the pouring rain like devoted pilgrims ought to do. These couple hours took my ideas again to my different pilgrimage’s. First I recalled strolling alone alongside the camino in Castilla y Leon again in 1996 the place a thick fog swallowed my boots on the street and my fingers earlier than me simply earlier than a chilly downpour soaked me to the bone. The sky opened up simply as I arrived to the good Iron Cross, La Cruz de Ferro, the place I unloaded considered one of my sacred rocks on the ever rising pile. Not lengthy after I arrived to the albergue in Manjarin the place I used to be greeted by Tomás, the final of the Templar Knights, who dedicates his life to caring for pilgrims. My Spanish Grandpa’s had already arrived and have been seated across the hearth which warmed our moist our bodies as we loved the espresso that Tomás served us. I bear in mind the frequent snack of white bread and chocolate that we additionally shared. The second reminiscence was from the Camino del Norte in 2005 on the downhill incline main into Bilbao. It was pouring rain prefer it does typically within the Basque Nation and I slipped within the mud and actually flew with my ft in mid air and smacked down onto my facet and backpack. I wore a incredible black and blue tattoo on my left cheek and thigh for weeks after that. Wet days alongside the camino might be tough however additionally they maintain one of the best reminiscences. So we weathered by the storm, laughing and defeated by the pelting rain. Different pilgrims took refuge in lighthouses and below random porches however we had a purpose for that day. Sardines!!
Vila Praia de Ancora was a welcoming city. The solar had began to peek out from behind the clouds as we ventured searching for sardines for lunch. A couple of years in the past we had sardines within the city of Espinho simply south of Porto and so they set the bar extraordinarily excessive. We now have loved excellent sardines since then in lots of locations however that restaurant ruined us for all times. You’ll be able to examine these right here.
We discovered the proper restaurant with one empty desk for 2. We leaned our packs towards the wall outdoors and settled in. We ordered two beers to go along with our cheese and contemporary bread. You’ll be able to by no means get sufficient Broa. (see my final put up). The cheese got here from the identical area because the Alvarinho wine that we ordered to accompany the sardines. The area of Melgaço and Monçao is simply about 50 kilometres northeast from the coast. All three cheeses have been cured goat cheese, one with paprika and Alvarinho wine. Whereas we have been killing our starvation with the “couvert” the proprietor got here out and instructed us that we may transfer our packs out of the solar and into the restaurant. It was fairly the spectacle.
The sardines arrived and all was nicely on the planet. I beloved the distinctive presentation which was totally different than anyplace else. The sardines have been delicately positioned round a pile of steamed potatoes that have been dressed with a “pickle” of onions and peppers and garnished with a inexperienced salad and roast peppers. Three separate meals in a single. We couldn’t have been happier.
The ultimate a part of our stroll to the city of Caminha saved us entertained by a forest alongside the coast the place we made buddies with some goats. Lastly in Caminha, after an especially chilly dip within the ocean, our household greeted us garbed of their Camino de Santiago t-shirts. We had our very personal pep squad for dinner that evening!
