NWC – 14th Jan – Loire Chenin Blanc
Firstly these phrases gained’t do that tasting justice, led former Chairman and founding member of our group. In addition to the unbelievable wines shared from his cellar he has limitless tales about his time within the wine commerce and the wine makers he received to know all through his profession. Only one instance was his friendship with René Renou, known as some of the influential figures in French wine on his dying some years in the past. The theme was notably across the distinctive character of Chenin within the Loire and the growing older potential from a few of these high producers.
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Domaine des Deux Arcs, Saviennieres, 2018 was by far the youngest wine of the night however with actual fruit depth of pear lemon curd on the nostril with a contact of cream soda. Fairly ripe fruits hit your palate with some oxidative caramel on the end. Missing somewhat acidity, particularly for Savennieres! Group dialogue was that this was the ‘fashion’ of the wine somewhat than some untimely growing older however I wasn’t so positive, exhausting to seek out in UK however retails for round £15 in France I imagine.
A trio from Domaine des Baumard was subsequent, once more from Saviennieres, a producer Roger had imported for five years within the 2000s. Firstly their cuvee, Trie Speciale, 2007. It was notable that these wines have been underneath screwcap, apparently they have been one of many first high French domaines to undertake them in 2001. This appeared obvious from the preliminary character of smoke and discount (regardless of the wine being decanted properly upfront). It does blow off with somewhat quince and tinned fruit cocktail peeking by means of. A glycerol, oily character dominates the entrance and mid palate however you’re left with a pleasing tang of lemon salinity. ~ £30
The Clos du Papillon seems to be their high cuvee with the 2018 accessible for round £40 within the UK, and although we have been consuming the 2006 it may have been 10 years younger. Each these 2 wines wanted a lot time, maybe due to the closure. It was a contact leaner than the final however will fairly wealthy vs trad Saviennieres and had extra peachy stone fruit with a touch of pepper of the end.
We completed with their primary property wine from 2003 and regardless of it retailing at round £15 it was most likely essentially the most drinkable of the three, although all have been properly made. Regardless of the highly regarded classic it had nice acidity with a beautiful lime cordial nostril. The palate had a nutty complexity that wasn’t current within the different wines but together with some preserved lemon character.
The identical 12 months however much less profitable was Chateau Varennes, Savennieres, 2003. The new 12 months was positively extra obvious with a muted nostril and fairly a easy palate. Maybe this was an advert for screwcap on lesser wines?
Our ultimate (dry) Saviennieres was a additional bottle from one other member. Into the ‘massive title’ domaines with Coulee de Serrant. These now commerce for £100, this 1986 was purchased round 10 years in the past for a discount £10 a chunk. There was some debate as as to if it was a defective wine, I used to be positively detecting some TCA on the nostril. The palate did appear in a greater place, very tender citrus fruit and fairly recent with nonetheless good acidity. As soon as of these bottles that you realize just isn’t fairly proper however you possibly can’t put your finger on why.
Onto Vouvray and extra tales, this time of Noel Pinguet from Huet visiting Nottingham 30/40 years in the past to ship a tasting at a neighborhood resort! Our first Huet wine was from the Le Mont winery and was Sec, 1995. This was instantly evocative of ‘correct’ Loire Chenin and my favorite fashion. Age has softened it however it has that basic moist wool, honey, honeysuckle nostril that actually couldn’t be anything. While golden within the glass the acidity remains to be zippy with luscious cirtus fruits and a contact of candy and sourness.
Huet, Clos du Bourg Sec, 1992 was dialed up a bit with a extra intense and wealthy nostril however maybe a contact extra superior with some walnut creeping in. There was additionally a bruised apple word and dialogue of malic acid being a contact too excessive right here.
Our ultimate wine of the domaine was Huet, Le Mont, Demi-Sec, 2002. The wine of the evening for me. Fabulous steadiness and with solely 18g of residual sugar in addition to 20 years down the road it had shed its major sweetness to disclose burnt orange and pineapple. Different members discovered some rum and raisin in there however I need to confess I’ve by no means had rum and raisin in my life so I couldn’t inform you! As ever with nice Loire Chenin all of this was packaged round a core of good acidity. The Huet wines have their followers amongst these within the know however have by no means fetched notably excessive costs, these wines accessible at £30/40 or choose up some with 10-15 years age for £50.
Comply with that you simply say. Nicely earlier than the sweeter wines, and billed as some respite from CB a Filliatreau, Saumur Champigny, 2004. I discovered this Cab Franc fairly exhausting work and never too typical of a leaner fashion I might need anticipated. Fairly a concentrated musky ruby color it was fairly ripe on the nostril however dominated by an earthy beetroot character and a savoury word that continued onto the palate. A couple of folks actually loved this however most would discover it difficult I feel.
Chateau de Suronde, Quarts de Chaume, 2004 took us firmly into candy territory. The one Grand Cru within the Loire, given this standing in 2011. Premium worth too because the 2003 is out there at £60 for a half bottle within the UK. The nostril was disappointing, fairly muted generic botrytis and a touch of glue as appropriately famous by somebody. The palate didn’t have the Chenin acidity I’d have hoped for though the focus was excellent and a few good complexity of spice and mulled notes on the end. Maybe expectations have been too excessive however too usually for me botrytis homogenises a wine.
Domaine Les Grandes Vignes, Coteau du Layon, 1998 couldn’t have been extra totally different. The QdC was deep amber however this pale gold and extremely mild on its ft. Pretty pineapple nostril, contact of floral honeysuckle and jasmine. It didn’t have the focus of flavours because the earlier wine however the freshness greater than compensated and it was my favorite of the sweeter wines.
Domaine Rene Renou Bonnezeau Cuvee Anne, 1995. A deal with to attempt to once more in nice form with loads of time left, as might be stated for a lot of of those wines. It was much like the QdC however somewhat softer in all areas, as you may count on an additional 10 years down the road. A mixture of marmalade and nuttiness gave approach to a steadiness that the QdC didn’t fairly have. Maybe a contact of peach iced tea creeping in too.
Finality a rarity, as if we hadn’t tried sufficient sough-after wines of age. Coulee de Serrant, Savennieres, Moelleux, 1995. To our understanding not an enormous quantity of candy Moelleux wine is made by this Domaine however there are some latest releases at round £100 however for older vintages you’re most likely £150+ a bottle. Regardless of 12.5% it has a boozy Armagnac nostril and was fairly in contrast to any of the opposite wines. I actually loved a shocking bitter quinine end however the consensus was that it was an ‘odd’ bottle, storage maybe? Nonetheless greater than gratifying if not singing
