Diageo’s yearly launched Particular Releases are all the time treasures, however they don’t all the time shake up expectations, usually counting on slight twists to some well-worn formulation on the planet of Scotch — some added age, virgin oak, increased proof, and so forth. With 2023, that’s all altering. With this “Spirited Xchange” assortment, Diageo is leaning on its international footprint and introducing some expressions which might be in contrast to something beforehand seen within the assortment, together with a daring vary of finishes in wine, rum, tequila, and different cask sorts — generally together. As with final 12 months’s releases, costs have been stored in test. Essentially the most luxe of those bottlings tops out at $400.
Says grasp blender Stuart Morrison: “This 12 months, we’re proudly revealing our new sequence of distillery-first expressions: Spirited Xchange Particular Releases 2023. For me, Spirited Xchange is about figuring out and celebrating the concepts, flavors, and tastes that encompass us every day and encourage our curiosity to create. This assortment has given us the chance to roam freely by way of our huge portfolio and experiment with outdated and new cask sorts, together with varied wine and native spirits casks to create eight one-of-a-kind expressions that we’ve by no means imagined earlier than.”
I’m able to dig in. Let’s go!
Lagavulin “The Ink of Legends” 12 Years Outdated Restricted Version 2022 – Completed in Don Julio Añejo tequila casks. Lagavulin completed in tequila casks, what’s going to they consider subsequent? Properly-peated however removed from overwhelming in the best way that some Lagavulin releases could be, that is fairly the delight from the get-go, taking the same old complement of peat and filtering it by way of a extra pepper- and vegetal-driven character, clearly the affect of the tequila at play. The palate is sweeter than anticipated, rolling spices and a few crimson berry fruit into the austere spine held excessive by the peat and a bit menthol. As with all good Islay, the end is ceaselessly. Some water helps carry every part into clearer, extra seductive focus. 112.8 proof. A- / $170
Mortlach “The Katana’s Edge” Restricted Version 2023 – No age assertion; completed in ex-Kanosuke Japanese whisky and ex-pinot noir casks, the primary time Japanese whisky casks have been used within the sequence. Fairly candy on the nostril, with notes of bubblegum balanced by contemporary grass and whiffs of mushroom. The palate brings ahead that enveloping mushrooms-and-soy high quality, making for a fancy expertise that’s without delay spicy-peppery, seductively candy, and laden with wealthy umami character. Placing the already brooding Mortlach right into a Japanese whisky cask is somewhat genius, though the expertise generally is a little drying at instances, notably on the toasty end. I’m unsure the place the pinot noir casks received to on this expertise, however I’m additionally unsure if I actually care all that a lot. 116 proof. A- / $280
The Singleton of Glendullan “The Silken Robe” 14 Years Outdated Restricted Version 2023 – Completed in Chardonnay de Bourgogne French Oak casks. Ny and caramel notes kick off the nostril, making for a fruit overload. Sharp and vibrant, with some fig and citrus within the combine, shifting from there right into a hazelnut character, with florals folded in. The palate drops in banana and doughy banana bread notes, shifting right into a extra almond nougat character. Barely inexperienced, that fruit clings to the expertise nearly ceaselessly, although as I mirror on the whisky as an entire, the entire affair feels rather less thrilling than I’d hoped. 110 proof. B+ / $135
Talisker “The Wild Explorador” Restricted Version 2023 – No age assertion, completed in a mixture of White, Tawny, and Ruby Port Casks. There’s no lacking the Talisker on this Talisker, the nostril a right away rush of briny, nutty, and reasonable smoky components, right here tempered ever so barely with a contact of lemon oil. There’s a strong stage of peat on the palate, with a lemony punch nicely represented. Chocolate and a few gingerbread notes make an look on the end. Heaps happening right here — although it by no means actually evoked Port to me, for higher or worse. 119.4 proof. B+ / $135
Roseisle “The Origami Kite” 12 Years Outdated Restricted Version 2023 – Roseisle is a mere 13 years outdated, certainly one of Diageo’s youngest and designed to be carbon impartial, utilizing its spent grain to create methane which in flip powers its personal turbines. Primarily used as a mixing whiskey, that is the primary ever single malt launch from the distillery. Absolutely bourbon cask matured. This noses with a candy breakfast cereal high quality, frivolously and bubbly in its fruitiness. Subtly nutty, with some chocolate rising. The palate is surprisingly wealthy, showcasing almond and vanilla, and a few Christmas cake spice. A bit peppery on the again finish, with extra of a dried flower high quality. Splendid with a splash of water, which tempers the harder-edged end and permits for extra honeyed sweetness to return by way of. 113 proof. A- / $150
Glenkinchie “The Floral Treasure” 27 Years Outdated Restricted Version 2023 – Matured in a mixture of bourbon and sherry barrels. Fantastically floral on the nostril, the whisky pours on potpourri and rose petals, overlaying a modest core of combined fruits and honey. Golden syrup and citrus peel notes construct on the palate, which drinks surprisingly cool, not sizzling in any respect, turning into more and more daring with chewy fruit notes, inexperienced apples, and a candy tropical fruit affect. Vivid and sunny on its enduring, orange-laced end. Pleasant. 116.6 proof. A / $400
Oban “The Soul of Calypso” 11 Years Outdated Restricted Version 2023 – Completed in (Jamaican) pot nonetheless rum casks. A direct delight. Fairly, attractive actually, melding tropical fruit with sea spray to create a singular expression and impression of the islands — each Scottish and Caribbean, all rolled into one. This can be a whisky that goes down all too simple, its mango and pineapple notes merging with varied components of espresso, darkish chocolate, bacon fats, and briny iodine. Water’s a professional transfer right here at 58% abv, which helps mood some lingering warmth whereas making for a extra agreeable, rounded physique. Slight notice of mint on the end. What I actually love is how this totally exudes Oban — but additionally Jamaican rum. It’s actually a better of each worlds, although the whisky at its core is rarely removed from sight. Pretty and doubtless my favourite whisky within the lineup. 116 proof. A / $140
Clynelish “The Jazz Crescendo” 10 Years Outdated Restricted Version 2023 – Absolutely bourbon barrel aged. Tropical pineapple aromas pour out of the glass, although their touched with coastal saline notes and a slight affect of balsa wooden. The palate lands as surprisingly salty, then chewy, with fruit-studded vanilla nougat notes making a daring influence. Candylike, with a lot tropical fruit and floral affect completely pouring out throughout its waxy physique. Water softens and sweetens the expertise, giving the end a decidedly creamy but floral character. A standout. 115 proof. A- / $200