I’ve grown to like the Minho river on the northern border of Spain and Portugal. Possibly it’s unusual to like a river however I actually don’t care about that. I additionally love the Genil river in Granada which runs down from the Sierra Nevada mountains and passes proper subsequent to my dwelling. It’s my sanctuary and the place I discover, as my Nana would say, peace of thoughts. My relationship with the Minho is completely different. Working, I’ve crossed it many occasions on the bus. I’ve by no means misplaced that pleasure of seeing this lovely river that naturally marks the border between Spain and Portugal. Two nations that share a really small peninsula however are so contrasting in meals, tradition and other people. I’ve additionally crossed on foot by way of the historic iron bridge that was in-built 1878. In the event you hike up into the mountains on the Portuguese aspect of the river you could have a view of a small but lovely island referred to as Ilha dos Amores that has the form of a coronary heart. The sundown the place the Minho river flows into the Atlantic Ocean is among the most lovely I’ve ever seen, together with Cadiz in Southern Spain. Having fun with a glass of vinho verde which is produced within the area whereas watching the sundown ought to be a should in life.
I had by no means, nonetheless, crossed the Minho river by boat. Though it was July of the yr that extra pilgrims had ever accomplished the Camino de Santiago, we have been the one two to fulfill the gentleman who would take us throughout the river that morning. One more reason I used to be so completely satisfied we had chosen this route. Crossing the river you could have an incredible view of Mount Santa Trega. On this small mountain you will see an archaeological website from the Castro Tradition which happened on this space throughout the 1st millennium BCE. They have been recognized for his or her massive fortified cities and settlements (oppida) throughout Northern and Central Portugal, Galicia, Asturias and elements of Leon.
On the opposite aspect of the Minho river you step off the boat within the city of A Guarda, now with a foot in Galicia! A city of not fairly 10,000 inhabitants that’s wealthy in historical past and gastronomy. Three of the yearly festivals listed below are centred round meals. The lobster, the swordfish, and one devoted to a candy egg based mostly bread with anise seed referred to as “Rosca de Yema” which is similar to my Nana´s easter bread. Talking of bread, on the agricultural homes on this space you will see a field for bread supply slightly below or subsequent to the mailbox. Very handy and essential because the bread in Galicia is incredible!
Contemplating it is a route much less traveled, or a minimum of a bit extra peaceable than others, there are some nice particulars for pilgrims alongside the trail. We discovered free scallop shells, areas for resting and picnics and even a meditation backyard. Once we stumbled upon the stunning bar at a glance out level, it couldn’t have been at a greater time. Breakfast appeared miles behind us now.
The tortilla española in northern Spain is all the time incredible however there’s something about the best way it’s ready in Galicia that all the time makes me completely satisfied. They appear to take it a step above irrespective of the place I order it. Our plate of Iberian ham and the tortilla with onion was the very best transfer we made that day contemplating we might not run into rather more till dinner.
Simply outdoors of the city of Oia we took a peek right into a small chapel devoted to San Sebastián. San Sebastián was often known as the protector from plagues in Spanish historical past. Mass is just celebrated every year on this chapel however it’s open yr spherical and likewise serves as a shelter for pilgrims throughout tough Atlantic storms.
In case you are in a small city like Oria and hungry at a time when eating places are closed you’ll be able to all the time discover a bar with a small snack that appears to be ready only for you. A beer named peregrino (pilgrim) and the ham flavored ruffles which are past addicting will certainly hold you fueled till dinner. My first hangover remedy in Granada was ruffles ham flavored chips and Fanta naranja! It’s a snack that simply retains on giving.
The pool at our lodge once we lastly arrived that night was a really welcome website as a result of traditionally rising temperatures in Galicia. These moments all the time take me again to my first and second caminos after I slept in monasteries with lots of of beds in a single massive room. Forgive me for my little luxuries, Saint James. The pool stood in second place after we discovered our good restaurant. The sundown over the Atlantic blessed us with its fading gentle as we loved a bottle of Albariño wine. The camino and Albariño are carefully tied collectively. One legend says that the monks from Cluny, France introduced the Albariño grape to Galicia when doing the pilgrimage within the twelfth century however different research present that albariño seeds have been additionally present in a salt mine from Roman occasions. Both approach, the albariño wine goes completely with the native meals.
Zamburiñas, are a small sort of scallop in Galicia. On the earth of scallops, they’re by far my favourite. This easy preparation which is to calmly grill them with olive oil and perhaps a little bit of parsley and garlic is the best way I most prefer to take pleasure in them. That evening, after our zamburiñas we additionally had a superbly grilled piece of turbot and a Galician steak.
The right finish to an ideal day. We determined this may be a romantic place for a particular celebration someday!
