I swore, no extra cookbooks. However, when a ebook that includes recipes from each pueblo within the province of Málaga appeared, I couldn’t resist. Entre Berza y Pringá, las Recetas de Málaga Pueblo a Pueblo, by Ana Abellán Ciudad (ColandCol Ediciones; 2023), has recipes for 103 dishes “that talk to us of a tradition of sustenance” and inform the story of a area, each wealthy and poor, that extends from seashores to mountains. (The writer blogs concerning the meals of Málaga province right here .)
After all, I turned instantly to the pages devoted to my very own village, Mijas, a whitewashed hillside pueblo overlooking the Mediterranean sea. The entry I discovered was for Sopa de Limón con Almejas—Lemon Soup with Clams.
Right here’s a tough translation of Ana Abellán’s recipe: Cook dinner clams in water or fish inventory with olive oil, garlic, parsley and saffron. As soon as the clams open, add the juice of a few lemons and salt to style. Place strips of day-old bread in soup bowls and ladle the soup over them. Permit the bread to take in a number of the soup. Ya está—that’s it.
The soup is an efficient instance of the standard kitchen—native substances resembling clams that may be gathered totally free or bought for little cash, mixed with the fundamentals of oil and garlic, given substance with bread. The soup varies with the area. One other model from my very own village (from the ebook Gastronomía Tradicional Mijeña by Remedios Valenzuela) requires potatoes as an alternative of bread. In Galicia, well-known for its shellfish, clam soup normally accommodates fideos, skinny noodles. In Las Marismas, the marshlands on the mouth of the Guadalquivir, pine nuts gathered within the area in addition to bread go into the soup.
The next recipe is a barely refined model of that soup, which could have been ready by hunters tenting out, who might collect pine nuts and clams, however who in all probability did not have a lemon at hand.
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Toasted bread soaks up the flavorful clam broth. |
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Pine nuts each thicken the soup and, added as garnish, present a texture distinction. |
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The soup is as creamy as chowder, however dairy-free. |
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Mediterranean pine nuts. |
The place pine nuts come from: These are the nuts (really, seeds) of the Mediterranean stone pine (Pinus pinea). I’ve a trio of pine timber rising alongside my patio. Nevertheless, the nuts are fiendish to, first, prise out of the pine cones, then crack and extract the kernels, which should be skinned. It’s simpler to purchase them! Nevertheless, those on the market are normally imported Chinese language pine nuts.
Clam Soup with Pine Nuts
Sopa de Almejas con Piñones
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Carril clams from Galicia. |
Serves 4.
1 pound small clams
Salt
Water
¼ cup olive oil + extra for the toasts
½ cup pine nuts
2 cloves garlic, peeled
Parsley, chopped
1 tablespoon flour
2 tablespoons dry Sherry (non-obligatory)
4 cups fish inventory or water
2 eggs, crushed
Sliced bread, toasted
Lemon wedges, to serve
Fill a bowl with water and add a teaspoon of salt. Stir to dissolve. Rinse the clams and place them within the bowl for 1 hour to disgorge any sand of their shells. Drain and rinse the clams once more.
Place the clams in a pan with ½ cup of water. Place the pan on excessive warmth, cowl the pan and cook dinner till clam shells open, 30 seconds to 1 minute. Shake or stir the clams if some haven’t opened. Take away clams with a slotted spoon and reserve them. If desired, some or the entire clams may be shelled. Pressure the remaining clam broth by a positive sieve and reserve it.
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Fried pine nuts and garlics. |
Warmth the oil in a pan on medium warmth. Add the pine nuts and garlics. Fry them, stirring continually, till they’re golden. Take away the pan from the warmth and tip it in order that the oil flows to 1 aspect. Skim out the pine nuts and garlics. Save just a few pine nuts to garnish the soup. Place the rest with the garlics in a mortar or mini-food processor with 1 tablespoon of coarsely chopped parsley. Grind or course of to make a paste.
Stir the flour into the oil remaining within the pan. Stir within the pine nut and garlic combination. Cook dinner on medium warmth whereas stirring. Add the reserved clam broth, the Sherry, if utilizing, and the fish inventory. Maintain stirring because the soup thickens barely. Cook dinner 10 minutes.
Place the crushed eggs in a blender container. With the blender operating, slowly add one or two cups of the new soup to the eggs. Mix till easy. Whisk the egg combination again into the soup. Return the clams to the soup and warmth gently. Don’t boil the soup after including the eggs, or it would “break.”
Drizzle the toasted bread with olive oil and place a slice within the backside of every shallow soup bowl. Ladle the soup over the bread. Sprinkle with reserved fried pine nuts and finely chopped parsley. Accompany the soup with lemon wedges.
Extra recipes with clams: