NWC – twenty first Feb – Chardonnay across the world
A brief listing this week because the tasting was cut up between Sherry and Chardonnay. What I learn about Sherry would match on the again of a stamp (and I’ve not learnt to like it but) so any notes wouldn’t do these bottles justice. Conversely Chardonnay is at all times competing for my favorite white wine with my beloved Riesling so I used to be trying ahead to attempting some new producers.
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Chacra, Mainque, 2018 is a kind of new world wines that makes you roll your eyes while you learn the advertising. Our first two wines have been from Patagonia, this a private venture from the grandson of the founding father of Sassicaia. They’ve been extra well-known for his or her Pinot Noir however extra just lately fashioned a partnership with Burgundian winemaker Jean-Marc Roulot who’s a Chardonnay specialist from Mersault. They produce 2 whites, that is the cheaper of the 2 at £48.95 from Lea and Sandeman. A beautiful shimmering gold the nostril was equally opulent. Lemon curd and honey with a contact of smoke and lanolin. Caramel comes by way of extra prominently because it develops within the glass. The palate is sort of impartial on the entrance with some citrus and yellow fruits on the mid palate and ending with a bitter oak notice. A wine that doesn’t really feel in concord or stability proper now however the caramel would fear me about ageing additional? (89 pts)
III & VI, Otronia, 2017 and while this wasn’t a blind tasting this was considered one of two wines that appeared a great distance from the everyday profile of Chardonnay. Extremely tropical, heady and expressive on the nostril. On the threat of sounding like Alan Partridge…this wine smells of…Lilt (1 min 56 seconds if you need the reference). Significantly although it actually was a mixture of grapefruit, pineapple, passion-fruit and guava. These intense fruit traits carry to the palate and with the very excessive acidity they at the moment dominate any oak affect. Divided opinion considerably, I favored it for what it was however others felt it was too removed from what Chardonnay needs to be. (91 pts)
Over to Europe however an space not famend for this grape with the Alois Lageder, Lowengang, 2018 from the Alto Adige. The nostril was fairly muted by comparability however nearly something would have paled compared to the Otronia. A curious mixture of candy pear with some cream soda and hints of white flower. The entrance palate has speedy freshness however that disappears rapidly into some oak and spice in addition to a contact of bitter milk. Others loved this greater than I. £50 (88 pts)
To the house of premium Chardonnay, albeit briefly, with a giant negociant in Leflaive & Associes and their Auxey-Duresses, 2018. After some wines with focus this was firmly on the different finish of the spectrum. Peach, lemon and jasmine compete with some restrained oak. The palate is tight however nearly feels dilute, in a sublime method and extra stone fruit is available in as you’re left with a contact of spice on the end. Fairly traditional white Burgundy from a lesser appellation however a contact in peril of getting misplaced on this line up of extra highly effective wines. Familiarity bias meant it was properly acquired however I believe it justified it, very drinkable. £50 (90 pts)
Yering Station, Reserve Chardonnay, 2017 was fascinating as I wasn’t conscious they made such a premium white at £65. I wrote ‘just like the final wine, simply made beneath screw cap’. Which is to say it had a equally restrained profile however felt so younger, mixed with discount and a struck match character. It was in all probability a contact extra to the citrus within the venn diagram than stone fruit though I bought some tinned peach with this wine. There was a touch of greenness, gooseberry was the closest I bought to defining that however with out the aromatics you normally affiliate that with. Effectively made for certain and I’d have an interest to see the place this goes however at £65 I’d slightly than Kooyong or Kumeu for my new world Chardonnay. (90-92 pts)
Adrianna White Bones, Zapata, 2014 was the oldest wine by a number of years and it confirmed. N.B. that is additionally a £80+ on launch now. After the pale color of our final two wines we have been again to a golden hue right here. The aromatics have been like nothing else I’ve had on a white wine earlier than. Natural, menthol notes dominated for me however I bought honey when another person talked about it. Perhaps honey cough sweets, acacia honey although with extra of a floral twist. Because it developed within the glass I bought some curry leaf too. The palate was a lot the identical, though properly made and balanced it was all fairly savoury and spicy. Jogged my memory a bit of some aged furmint, fairly vital physique. Maybe previous it greatest though opinions typically point out the distinctive character of this wine, not one crack open as a crowd pleaser however for wine nerds a lot of curiosity. (91 pts)
