NWC – thirty first Jan – Savoie
I made a decision to not write about final week’s tasting, sake. While it was glorious and illuminating it will have been difficult to summarise succinctly. That mentioned this week there was extra to study with a area I knew little about, Savoie. It’s located within the South East of France, snowboarding nation and its panorama dominated by mountains. As I perceive it while wine has been made within the area for a while there’s a new wave of constructing ‘higher’ wines and use of indigenous regional grapes, led by Gilles Berlioz. Particular point out for the labels of this area, stunning to a bottle. (Majority of those wines sourced by the presenter from vinetrail.co.uk some from Wine Society and a few purchased in area)
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We kicked off with Cremant de Savoie that’s from Jean Francois Quenard and out there from the Wine Society at £21. At Zero it was a lip smacking begin to proceedings. It really put me in thoughts of an English glowing wine, maybe one with some Seyval Blanc. Excessive acidity, sherbet lemon and granny smith apple. A contact of yeast however little in the best way of autolytic characters. Presently of 12 months it felt a bit difficult however on a summers day very refreshing.
We began the nonetheless wines with the reds, as is custom within the area and the primary of the grapes I hadn’t encountered earlier than. Persan. Having had a fast look it doesn’t look like associated to any mainstream grape and its character was fairly fascinating. The wine was Adrien Berlioz, Octavie, 2022 and was blushingly purple in its youth. The nostril was aromatic however inexperienced and stalky. The palate was extra interesting with some forest fruits and blackcurrant flavours, somebody in contrast it to a Lambrusco, for me a contact like a Mencia I had not way back. I’m clearly out of contact as one theme of the night for me was the shock on the price, this bottle retails for £30 and while a superb wine it didn’t supply sufficient enjoyment or curiosity to contemplate including any to my cellar!
Subsequent we had a critical of wines from the Mondeuse grape, one other Savoie exclusiv, though it may be present in California now. The primary instance was from Gilles Berlioz, La Deuze, 2021. It was way more translucent than the primary crimson, nonetheless younger however extra ruby with flashes of purple. This was stalky on the nostril once more, a little bit smoke too together with a rubbery twang. Not fairly pinotage however not far off. A palate of crimson apple and crimson currant with dry tannins was not terrifically extra interesting. It was famous that is designed to go along with the charcuterie of the area which might have improved it. £25
Mondeuse once more however in such a unique type was Domaine Cotes Rousses, Coteaux de La Mort, 2018. Instantly this was dense, inky and virtually meaty. Far more complicated and fascinating nostril that carried via the palate. Hugh density and extraction with its fruit and black fruits with hints of black olives. Fairly a ringer for respectable Nothern Rhone for me. Apparently this winemaker is one to observe and I concur. £37
Our last crimson was a submission from one other group member so as to add to the tasting, a 1995 Mondeuse from Domaine Genoux, Chateau de Merande. Presently they solely seem to supply an identical crimson referred to as N45 however I’m certain the vary has modified since 1995 so I couldn’t discover out way more! Clearly way more mature and browning, as nicely it will be 30 years down the road. It had a leathery, inventory pot nostril on it. There was a little bit soiled, candy & bitter crimson fruit on the palate with some licks of soy sauce reminding you simply how outdated it was. The older members of the group loved this profile much more than I, and while it was actually fascinating I discovered it difficult at finest.
Onto the whites and Altesse the primary of the grapes right here and from Domaine de L’Orchis, Quintessence d’Altesse, 2022. Pale color, fairly a muted word with a contact of waxy aroma however some perfumed honeysuckle and candy fruits of pear, apricot and a touch of rosewater. Quite a bit reward for this across the room however not my sort of wine. £23
Domaine Grangeons, Altesse en Paradis, 2019 was fairly a unique beast. Instantly a extra intense nostril, numerous tropical and pineapple alongside a contact of nuttiness. Dare I say pina colada? Good acidity onto the palate and the fruits stay, maybe dried pineapple right here quite than the freshness on the nostril. A contact brief however meals enjoyable and I most popular this of the two. £26
Lastly into the final of the native grapes, Jacquere. Apparently ubiquitous on the native slopes for the punters to glug down alongside their fondue and raclette, simply not the extra critical examples we had been offered with. Severe actually was a superb adjective for the Cotes Rousses, Armenaz, 2020. All the pieces right here was dialed as much as 11. Unimaginable depth on the nostril and palate coupled with excessive acidity and a glycerol mouthfeel. Smokey peach, preserved lemon and different citrus whacked you around the chops. I’m undecided anybody agreed with me however I used to be in GG Riesling territory right here, which in relative youth I can discover an excessive amount of. Very fascinating to see how this might develop. £26
Again to the legend Gilles Berlioz for his Cricri, 2022 Jacquere. A a lot shorter word from the night ‘much like above however much less depth andmore straightforward consuming’. It was actually nicely made and balanced simply actually dwarfed by the Cotes Rossuses and suffered by attempting to comply with it. £34
We lastly hit a well-known grape within the form of Roussane. Famous that it was good to see no-one attempting to made a superb Chardonnay ‘simply beacuse’ and apparently some areas of Savoie have banned it! We began with one other Gilles Berlioz wine, Les Filles 100% Roussanne, 2021. As you may anticipate we had been extra golden colored right here than earlier whites, deep stone fruits on the noise and a frivolously peppered palate with some yellow fruit, unripe plum character. This was my favorite of the Berlioz wines however wanted extra time however individuals had been impressed, evaluating it to a Crozes-Hermitage. £34
Lastly we had maybe the (I’m informed) cult producer of the area, Domaine des Ardoisieres, with Cuvee Schiste, 2022. By far the most important jury splitter of the night. I used to be fairly firmly voting responsible. An actual unappealing nostril of cider vinegar however with a caramel and lactic word. The palate was far superior however generally you’ll be able to’t overlook that nostril. It was balanced and layered, tender however lengthy though I struggled to select any actually defining traits. You already know generally you’re left questioning what others see in a wine that you simply don’t? Some beloved it. £60
