The panade recipe in The Zuni Cafe Cookbook got here to my consideration when a buddy baked a lovely double-version of it in an over-sized AGA dutch oven and served it at a cocktail party years in the past. It was the show-stopping centerpiece of a meal flanked by a lovely winter inexperienced + chicory salad and gem-shaded glasses of wine. The mixture of effervescent cubes of brothy bread and caramelized onions silkily merging with molten threads of cheese is knee-buckling. It’s the right instance of a brief record of the best substances coming collectively into one thing far more than then sum of their components.
I’ve baked variations of this panade within the years since, and it by no means disappoints. It’s endlessly adaptable, that means which you can add seasonal substances to fit your fancy. For instance, in my case, I do a vegetarian model by switching up the broth, and I like my onions on the caramelized aspect of the spectrum. I’ll add no matter sautéed greens or roasted greens I’ve round. Judy additionally listed a spread of concepts and variations within the cookbook, so when you’ve got it (and you need to!) you’ll want to have a look at these for year-round inspiration. Her unique had chard. I exploit a lot of scallions in mine. Briefly, it’s a kind of IYKYK recipes. Molly Wizenberg knew what was up means again in 2005 when she wrote in regards to the Judy panade recipe right here.
I’m going to dive in and reply a lot of questions right here that may pop up. The ingredient record for this panade couldn’t be easier, however the satan is within the particulars and navigating private preferences.
What Type of Bread for this Panade?
The brief reply is an effective, chewy artisan sourdough loaf. That stated, I will even argue that quite a lot of that is private choice. In the event you bake sourdough at residence, by all means, use that. Both of these selection will doubtless lead to a properly structured panade with good distinction between a few of the elements. The bread selection is such a giant deal on this recipe, every one will impression your finish outcome immensely. I discovered the arduous means after I used a extra industrial sourdough loaf to make the panade one night time – a lot finer crumb, much less/no chewiness, and I’m guessing it was 100% all-purpose flour. The ensuing panade broke down too far, into an unstructured stoop. You need the bread to place up a battle and maintain a little bit of pressure. Not go to mush altogether. The perfect model I’ve made was with a loaf of day-old selfmade sourdough made with wild rice in it. 
Crust or no Crust?
There are arguments for each. The panade right here retained the crust on the bread cubes. However I’ve performed crustless variations earlier than. In the event you determine you’re keen on an excellent oozy, silky panade, go crustless. In the event you like your panade to have extra construction, hold your crust. Or go 50/50!
What’s the Finest Broth for Panade?
We have a tendency to make use of no matter good-tasting broth we now have round or within the freezer (defrost). I really like an herby broth for this scallion and chive model, however when you’re in a pinch seize a bouillon dice or two and go from there. Judy makes use of a rooster broth in her recipe (which doesn’t work for vegetarians), however I’ve had nice outcomes with mushroom broth, and corn broth together with roasted cherry tomatoes and goat cheese within the panade. I’ve even used spicy bean broth.
Can I exploit a Completely different Cheeses on this Panade?
You may! I name for Gruyere, however point out within the headnote that one in all my favourite variations ended up being a mix of Gruyere, Parmesan, and Pecorino cheeses. I desire barely assertive cheeses for the panade, with not less than a portion being a cheese that oozes when melted. For instance, I wouldn’t attain for a mozzarella – too delicate.
Can I Make this Forward of Time?
I typically make the caramelized onions forward of time. After which every other fillings that I’d have the ability to pre-roast.
Soupy versus Dry-ish Panades
Once more, that is private choice. After you bake panade a few times you’ll begin to get a way of what model you favor. You may go the soup-is route by including extra broth. Or lean into extra of a stuffing vibe with much less broth. The recipe under goals to hit the mark the place the panade is transitioning from a stuffing-like texture, into silkier magic, not-yet-in-soup territory.
This recipe is a warming, hearty, winter hotter. It appears to be like so rustic, however the silkiness down within the depths is what’s extremely shocking. It’s the final word consolation dish that I hope you get pleasure from as a lot as I’ve over time. Because of Jamie & Chanda & Bonni for our SF panade dinners, we miss them (and also you) a lot!
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