Surrounded on three sides by stately snow-capped Alps, the Piemonte (Piedmont) is the birthplace of the Gradual Meals motion and residential to hazelnuts, white truffles, plin pasta, grissini, fabulous wines, and extra. Whereas it could be one of many lesser-known areas in Italy, when you uncover its magnificence and culinary riches, you’ll be again.
ALBA: HEARTBEAT OF THE LANGHE
The city of Alba is centrally situated close to many storied wine areas within the Piemonte area, most notably Barolo and Barbaresco. Wander the quaint streets previous the Piazza Duomo and its bell tower, and it gained’t take you lengthy to note this wine area is dwelling to 2 different necessary components: hazelnuts and truffles. Alba is the white truffle capital of the world, so that you’ll discover shops in all places devoted to promoting truffles and truffle merchandise, and you may count on freshly shaved truffles (each summer time and white, relying on the season) on most menus.
HAZELNUT HEAVEN
As you journey by the rolling hills of the Piemonte, you’ll be astonished by the variety of hazelnut farms. They’re tucked between vineyards and ramble down from hilltop cities. Speak to locals, and also you’ll uncover that it’s not unusual for winemakers to transform a few of their land to hazelnuts. Why? Ferrero, which owns mega manufacturers resembling Nutella and Kinder, is predicated in Alba. And legend is true: early within the morning when the wind is blowing in a sure path, the city of Alba smells like Nutella when hazelnuts are being processed into one among our favourite pantry staples. Pure bliss.
Other than Nutella, you’ll discover chocolate hazelnut spreads and hazelnut flour from artisan producers and hazelnut every thing. A few of our favorites: gelato, baci di dama cookies, and bunet, a creamy Piemontese pudding.
Liguria
This beautiful area hugs the Ligurian Sea, the place colourful fishing villages dot the shoreline and lemons droop from timber on terraced hillsides. We had been captivated by the historical past and power in Genoa (Genova) and enchanted by Camogli, Rapallo, Santa Margherita Ligure, and Portofino. All alongside the way in which, we discovered a ardour for Genoese pesto, focaccia, farinata, chifferi, and a lot extra.
MEET ENRICA OF A SMALL KITCHEN IN GENOA
Enrica Monzani, a former lawyer turned passionate foodie, leads meals excursions in addition to personal cooking courses in her dwelling and shares recipes on her weblog, A Small Kitchen in Genoa. She was a 2016 finalist within the VI World Championship of Pesto al Mortaio, pesto made by hand with a mortar. Join along with her at asmallkitcheningenoa.com or @asmallkitcheningenoa on Instagram.
GENOA: A PORT CITY STEEPED IN HISTORY
The oldest historic heart of Europe, Genoa is thought for its giant port, family-run retailers, and irresistible basil pesto, to call a couple of. Uncover native flavors by searching for previous eateries referred to as sciamadde, the place, since medieval occasions, farinata (chickpea tart), castagnaccio (chestnut cake), and polpettone (inexperienced bean and potato casserole) have been baked in shallow copper pans till steaming. After all, there may be focaccia, too. Cease in a restaurant́, order a cappuccino, and mop your focaccia within the cappuccino—it’s the same old Genoese breakfast!
When in Liguria, you’ll additionally discover limitless variations of savory pies, torte di verdura, for which this area holds the report in Italy. Layers of puff pastry are crammed with seasonal greens, recent cheese, eggs, and fragrant herbs and spices. The queen is torta Pasqualina, which hides entire eggs inside and historically seems on tables throughout Easter. —Enrica Monzani
GENOESE FOCACCIA
This famend flatbread has a crispy exterior, moist inside, dimples, and an extra-virgin olive oil shine. Don’t miss focaccia with onions which can be gently cooked to deliver out their sweetness with out caramelizing. —Enrica Monzani
BREAKFAST BRIOCHE
Plan to queue at Pasticceria Tagliafico for a chiffero, a beloved breakfast brioche. Whereas these may resemble croissants, the similarities cease there. Right here, the chifferi are softer and fewer flaky and are crammed with a touch of apricot jam. After baking, they get a brush of easy syrup. —Enrica Monzani
📍 Through Galata, 31R Genoa
STUNNING CONFECTIONS
This jewel field of a confectionery retailer is a feast for the eyes and people with a candy tooth. Pietro Romanengo is Italy’s oldest famend confectioner, making candy treats since 1780. Every part is made in small batches with the best components. Of word, you’ll wish to attempt quaresimali (standard throughout Lent), marzipan candies, Rosolio Drops, and really something that calls to you.
📍 Through di Soziglia, 74/76R Genoa
FOCACCIA AL FORMAGGIO DI RECCO
You may’t go away Liguria with out tasting a slice of focaccia al formaggio. The identify is deceptive as a result of it’s not a flatbread or what you consider as focaccia. It’s an historic pie that’s fabricated from skinny unleavened dough crammed with a recent native cheese that’s baked in a wooden oven till creamy and melted. The capital of this gluttony is Recco, a small coastal village a couple of kilometers east of Genoa. However it’s also possible to style the unique at Revello in Camogli, one of many loveliest small fishing villages in Liguria. Search for the cheese’s label to be hooked up to the new pie, an indication of authenticity. —Enrica Monzani
📍Through Giuseppe Garibaldi, 183 Camogli
LIGURIAN STREET FOOD
Farinata, a humble chickpea tart courting again to Roman occasions that’s now thought-about road meals, is baked till browned and crispy, lower whereas nonetheless sizzling, and served in squares. In Rapallo, on the family-owned Pizzeria U Fainottu Du Caruggiu, farinata has been popping out of their oven since 1984.
📍 Vico Fortunio Liceti, 7 Rapallo
PICTURESQUE PORTOFINO
When you’re searching for a second to decelerate alongside the Italian Riviera and take within the views, Portofino is a protected and picturesque harbor crammed with open-air cafés and boutiques. The drive in alongside steep cliffs that crash into the ocean is breathtaking. You may even hike to Portofino from Santa Margherita Ligure. Whether or not you drive or stroll, it’s the proper place to get pleasure from an extended wine lunch of fried anchovies and trofie al pesto Genoese.
TOSCANA
Arguably probably the most iconic panorama in Italy, which has been inspiring artists for hundreds of years, Toscana (Tuscany) is acknowledged for its towering cypress timber, hilltop cities, and wealthy colour palette of gold and sienna. We found new bakeries in bustling Firenze (Florence), strolled the streets, consuming gelato, and admired the magnificence round each nook. In Siena, we had been charmed by the central piazza, duomo, and slender streets twisting by this medieval city.
MEET GIULIA OF JULS’ KITCHEN
Giulia Scarpaleggia writes, teaches, and cooks in her household’s Tuscan farmhouse exterior of Siena, the place she lives along with her photographer husband, Tommaso, and their daughter. Join along with her at julskitchen.com or @julskitchen on Instagram.
BREAKFAST AT BUONAMICI
Pasticceria Buonamici is a historic Florentine bakery within the coronary heart of the Oltrarno neighborhood, which focuses on high quality components and artisanal, conventional manufacturing. The bakery was opened in 1949 by Bruno Buonamici, who realized the artwork of baking whereas working for the famend Pasticceria Robiglio as a baby. Buonamici is widely known for its pistachio cantucci and unimaginable number of Italian croissants and pastries. This is among the finest spots on the town to get pleasure from an Italian breakfast. Seize a cappuccino and custard-filled cornetto, and revel in it standing on the counter, the Italian method. —Giulia Scarpaleggia
📍Through dell’Orto, 27R Firenze
GELATO, ALWAYS!
Gelatao: The beloved Italian tackle ice cream. To be thought-about true Italian gelato, the combination will need to have 6% to 10% milk fats, 70% much less air than different ice cream, and extra flavoring. Meaning gelato is denser and richer than different frozen desserts.
Antonio Ciabattoni based Gelateria La Sorbettiera in 2007 along with his spouse, Elisa, and the standard of his artisanal gelato shines by in each vibrant, seasonal style, supported by high-quality components and a profound consideration to new developments. Right here, you’ll find excellent classics resembling pistachio di Bronte or ingenious creations, such because the lemon and sage sorbet or basil and lime gelato, impressed by Chef Jacque Genin. Get pleasure from a conventional waffle cone, fill a brioche along with your favourite taste, or have your gelato as a mattonella, which interprets to “tile,” so suppose ice cream sandwich. —Giulia Scarpaleggia
📍Piazza Torquato Tasso, 11R Firenze
PANFORTE PARADISE
Bakers don’t wish to miss Antica Drogheria Manganelli to top off on every kind of Tuscan goodies. As you stroll in, be aware of the canisters of spices, dried fruit, and nuts behind the counter. Right here, merely inform the pleasant crew how a lot the panforte you propose to bake will weigh and for those who choose a lightweight or darkish spice mix. They’ll measure out the quantity of spices, fruit, and nuts it’s good to make this Sienese specialty. You may as well buy superbly wrapped panforte, vin santo, and far more. For Giulia’s Panforte recipe, go to bakefromscratch.com/panforte.
📍Through di Città 71/73 Siena
SIENESE SPECIALTIES
Locals love Panificio il Magnifico bakery for its pan co’ Santi, a raisin- and walnut-studded spiced bread usually made for All Saints’ Day, and its particular Easter schiacciata, stated to be among the finest on the town. At Christmastime, pan co’ Santi is offered recent each day, together with a focaccia constituted of the identical dough. The remainder of the yr, pan co’ Santi is offered solely on Fridays. Along with basic Sienese Christmas desserts, you’ll additionally discover on a regular basis breads, ciambelloni (doughnuts), cantucci cookies, and desserts like pinolata, panettone, and colombe. —Giulia Scarpaleggia
📍 Through dei Pellegrini, 27 Siena
