Tucked down a quiet, winding lane in central Taipei, Chán Shífāng (饞食坊) is, at first look, simply one other izakaya-style restaurant among the many metropolis’s multitudes. However a white signal with the title, which interprets roughly to “The Gluttonous Eatery” or “Grasping Home of Meals,” catches the attention. The muffled din of younger individuals, deeply enmeshed within the pleasures of food and drinks, attracts you nearer. And as soon as inside, you’ll discover an institution singularly and proudly Taiwanese, with a singular menu that includes solely native alcohol and unabashedly political décor, uncommon for a well-liked restaurant inside a tradition usually uncomfortable with direct battle.
A glowing neon signal that reads “glutton” at Taipei’s Chán Shífāng.
Sit down on the slim steel bar, and the very first thing you’ll discover is a huge neon character for the phrase “Glutton” glowing purple on the wall. The chipped, half-tiled flooring, peeling yellow concrete partitions, low stools and folding tables are meticulously curated to offer off a nostalgic air, a name again to basic Taiwanese eateries of the Nineteen Eighties. Extra shocking is the outstanding banner declaring “Freedom for Taiwan” (台灣獨立). Throughout one go to, playing cards exclaiming “Freedom for Hong Kong” lay scattered on a bench. The profile photograph on Chán Shífāng’s Fb web page declares “No Extradition to China” in English. Whereas the teams of chatting buddies across the room don’t learn as notably rebellious, the actual fact that they’re consuming there means the shows don’t shock. The shoppers could even agree.
Chán Shífāng is a brand new breed of bar and restaurant: a classy Taipei sizzling spot with pro-Taiwan banners and a proudly Taiwanese menu.
To know the importance of those design decisions, it’s price noting that the rising motion of individuals figuring out as Taiwanese is comparatively novel and really divisive. The small island society is influenced by an extended, complicated historical past of immigration and occupation, and sometimes historic ties are put earlier than geographical ones. A latest and influential demographic change got here in 1949, when the top of the Chinese language Civil Warfare introduced Normal Chiang Kai-shek, his military and tens of millions of individuals fleeing Mao’s Communist regime. Chiang Kai-shek declared the previously sleepy settlement to be the brand new seat of the Chinese language authorities, and he vowed to reunite Taiwan and mainland China sooner or later. Lots of the ethnically Chinese language individuals who had relocated to Taiwan and their kids by no means thought of the island their homeland. Taiwan was the place they lived, not the place they had been from.
An increasing number of of the present era feels in another way. Younger individuals as we speak usually outline themselves as Taiwanese first, and with that id comes extra pleasure of place, much less eager for one thing throughout the ocean. They’re now not ready for a reunion, and actually, reject the very concept of it.
Chán Shífāng solely affords alcohol that is made in Taiwan.
After all, China considers Taiwan a province gone rogue. Whereas there have been different pro-Taiwan actions, this present wave feels extra pressing due to China’s more and more bellicose overtures towards invasion, an upcoming election in Taiwan and the attendant uncertainty. There are few nations left with official diplomatic ties to the Taiwanese authorities. Residents of Taiwan are able the place they need to contemplate what they need their future to appear to be, and what they contemplate their id to be. In that context, Chán Shífāng is a brand new breed of bar and restaurant: a classy Taipei sizzling spot with pro-Taiwan banners, and a menu that solely affords alcohol made in Taiwan.
A handwritten signal notes that this is not the everyday Japanese-style izakaya, of which there are various across the metropolis, remnants of when Japan occupied Taiwan between 1895 and 1945.
The drinks menu consists of fruity, aromatic plum wine from central Taiwan’s mountainous Nantou, a sake-style drink from central Taiwan’s industrial powerhouse, Taichung, and Kavalan whisky from the bamboo-covered hills of japanese Taiwan’s Yilan. There’s even particular small-batch rum and brandy made in a tiny city within the mountains proper exterior of Taipei.
However the quick listing of xiǎo mǐjiǔ (小米酒), or millet wine, most clearly speaks to Chán Shífāng’s Taiwan-first narrative. The highest of the part reads: “Since we solely promote Taiwanese alcohol, how on earth might we not promote genuine [Indigenous] Millet Wine?”
Xiǎo mǐjiǔ, a Taiwanese wine, has a popularity as an unsophisticated homebrew and isn’t extensively distributed, even inside Taiwan, but it surely seems on the menu at Chán Shífāng.
Taiwan’s Indigenous teams and their merchandise have traditionally been appeared down upon, discriminated towards or became vacationer curiosities. However the development of Taiwan pleasure has coincided with a reappreciation for the island’s unique inhabitants. Taiwan has 16 formally acknowledged Indigenous teams, and every has a god or goddess devoted to millet and its personal model of xiǎo mǐjiǔ.
At its most conventional, xiǎo mǐjiǔ is made utilizing a sort of cereal grass akin to quinoa, which is steamed, combined with brewer’s yeast and left to ferment for round a month. At the moment, the wine is commonly brewed with glutinous rice, which is simpler and faster to ferment. It has a popularity as an unsophisticated homebrew, candy to the purpose of treacly and eye-crossingly robust. It isn’t extensively distributed, even inside Taiwan. It’s definitely not usually discovered at hip bars and eating places round Taipei, the place drink menus are dominated by craft beer, European wine lists and elaborate craft cocktails with smoky thrives which are offered to tables the place diners clap in adulation.
At Chán Shífāng, xiǎo mǐjiǔ is served from a carafe alongside standard dishes meant to be shared.
Chán Shífāng affords 4 xiǎo mǐjiǔ choices. The primary, with the bottom ABV (10 %), is brewed with inexperienced plums. Its sweetness is paying homage to a Sauternes or Tokaji wine, the viscosity reduce with a tart fruitiness. The subsequent is fermented with rice and has the sweetness and aroma of toasted rice. The third, which has solely millet, no rice, is taken into account probably the most genuine; its make-up results in a cleaner, drier mouthfeel. The ultimate is an aged model that, at 33 % ABV, is described as “for these in a rush” (presumably to get drunk).
The home specialty is a dish consisting of thick chewy noodles laced with numbing spice (proper), a well-liked accompaniment to xiǎo mǐjiǔ.
Every is served in a small glass carafe, together with a sweating container of ice. It’s finest loved slowly, paired with an extended parade of small sharing plates. The flavors of Chán Shífāng’s complementary dishes draw inspiration from southern Taiwan, with a little bit of Japanese affect and a private aptitude. Unadorned chewy noodles shock with a fiery chunk of white pepper and numbing spice (花椒面). An entire fish, roasted in salt over coals, is juicy beneath its smoking pores and skin (烤魚). A comforting bowl of rice is drizzled with long-stewed pork, and known as, merely, “The Research Overseas Pupil’s Model of Stewed Pork” (留學生滷肉飯). They are saying there’s a narrative behind the title, but it surely’s for an additional time.
Chán Shífāng affords 4 xiǎo mǐjiǔ choices together with an aged model described as “for these in a rush” (presumably to get drunk).
Xiǎo mǐjiǔ and most of the different Taiwanese drinks on Chán Shífāng’s listing can’t but be discovered off the island, however with the rising recognition of Taiwanese meals in America, maybe drinks are quickly to comply with. For now, although, locations like Chán Shífāng act as a bellwether for the present and future tendencies of the island nation. It isn’t solely a comforting place to tuck into food and drinks; its pleasure of place interprets to a singular spirit of conviviality the place one can toast to Taiwan’s complicated heritage, its future and its Indigenous tradition.
